1.8t into a VW A2 shell Conversion

Frequently Asked Questions

Author: Andy Gajewski

Creation Date: August 21, 2002

Last Modified: January 19, 2003

Disclaimer: The authors and contributors to this FAQ are not liable for the correctness and quality of the information contained in this document. The authors and contributors are not liable for any type of physical, financial, emotional or any other sort damages resulting from the use of the information contained in this document.

Copyright 2002 Andrew Gajewski; You may save, download and print this document for personal use with the condition that it is kept whole in its original form at all times. You may NOT distribute, host, mirror, modify or alter this document in any way without prior permission from the author.

Submissions: If you would like to contribute to this faq, please send an e-mail to ‘gajewski at comcast.net’ with one of the following subject lines (please use the proper subject as I get tons of e-mail and have filters setup). Please reference a specific question number if applicable.

· 1.8t into A2 FAQ: new question

· 1.8t into A2 FAQ: correction

· 1.8t into A2 FAQ: answer

Contributors: These are people that have provided information either directly by e-mailing me or have posted something on various public forums where I read and extracted the publically posted information.

Andy Nixon (Andy_Nixon/Ljbinc%LJBINC@ljbinc.com) ß Lots of great info from this guy!!!!!

AxeAngel (VWvortex Member – 1.8t Forum)

jassem99 (VWvortex Member – Hybrid/Swap Forum)

xyxang (VWvortex Member – Hybrid/Swap Forum)

athree20v (VWvortex Member – Hybrid/Swap Forum)

xray_boy (VWvortex Member – Hybrid/Swap Forum)

Index:

1. Engine Related Questions

2. Electrical Related Questions

3. Transmission Related Questions

4. Additional Resources/Links

1. Engine Related Questions

1.1. Which 1.8t to use as a donor?

There are several possibilities:

· Any pre-2000 transverse engine (usually from a NB). This is the easiest as it is the most similar job to what we have to accomplish. The downside is that the valves are smaller than the other 1.8T variants and thus the power output is less.

· Any pre-2000 longitudinal engine (usually from B5 Passat and Audi A4, years '97-'99.5). Issue with these is that you have to change the intake manifold and obviously turn it 90 degrees to fit into an A2.

· Any post-2000 transverse (NB/G/J ) or longitudinal engine. In addition to the above issues, you will need to deal with drive by wire gas pedal conversion and figure out how to get around the immobilizer.

· The following variants have been successfully transplanted:

o AEB (’99 Passat)

1.2. What id the difference between all the 1.8t engine variations?

Code	Compression	Exh. Diameter	Turbo	Stock Boost	Timing	Source
AWD	9.3:1	55mm	K03	0.6bar	No VVT	2000 G/J/GTI
AWW	9:3:1	50mm	K03/04	0.6bar	VCT	2001 G/J/GTI/Wolfsburg
AWP	9.3:1	55mm	K03/04	0.8bar	VCT emmis	2002 G/J/GTI/337
AEB						1997-1999 Passat/A4?
ATW
AUG
APH	9.3:1					NB

· All catbacks are 2.17"

· 2nd O2 sensor on AWD can be tapped for A/F gauge

· AWP engines lack Fuse 6

· AWD had slightly different fitting coilpacks, they use clips and allen keys to be secured.

· All 1.8t engines regardless of engine code and regardless of car have the same block casting, only the ancillaries differ. The exception to the rule is the audi 225tt that has strenghtened internals and an additional fuel rail.

· The AEB engine code (non-DBW) has the largest valves and consequently is one of the most in demand head's.

· The 1.8T NB (APH code) has a "baby" K03 turbo--not same as Golf and TT

1.Exhaust System: VW put 2L exhaust on the NB 1.8T!

2.Smaller Intercooler (even smaller than Golf part). Less air through turbo = less boost.

3.Small Injectors, and 3 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator (sufficient for 150HP that’s it; maybe 160 max.)

· Looks like Golf 1.8T is a "hardware 180 HP" motor. The NB 1.8T is a "hardware 150 HP" motor. (ie Making 180HP Golf=software change; making 180HP NB=changing above parts)

· The transverse block is cast quite differently with a different style oil cooler and filter flange and most noteably an internal water pump about where the intermediate shaft would be and driven off of the timing belt.

1.2. What donor parts do you need?

· 1.8T engine (block/head/turbo/exhaust manifold, etc.)

· intake manifold if using a longitudinal engine (see question 1.3)

· engine wiring harness

· engine ECU

· MAF

· Coil Packs

· Throttle Body

· VR6 throttle cable (if not using drive by wire) (see question 1.6)

· ODBII 1551 connector and wiring harness (for VAG-COM)

· extra/spare wiring and connectors from under dash of donor car (will aid in electrical mess)

· all hoses/pipes/vacuum lines

· some sort of intercooler (stock or custom)

· accessories (see question 1.4)

· tachometer signal converter (see question 1.10)

· An O2A tranny (see question 3.1)

1.3. What intake manifold do I need if installing a longitudinal engine?

It usually depends what you plan on doing with the intercooler and associated piping.

· If you want your throttle body on the passenger side, use a Golf/Jetta intake manifold. Any year manifold (including drive by wire versions) bolts to the throttle body. However, there may be issues with the fuel rail. AEB fuel rail didn't bolt up and there were clearance issues. Able to solve the problem with riser plates for the mounting points on the fuel rail.

· If you want your throttle body on the drivers side, use a Audi TT intake manifold or you can use the Euro Audi 'S3" manifold.

· The following intakes have been used successfully:

o Older Golf - part # 06A 133 201 AR (not sure if they are available anymore) – no fuel rail mods needed.

1.4. What to do about accessories (AC/PS/Alternator)?

There are several options.

If you want to retain get the AC

Use accessories from an A2 16v. They will bolt right up with no modifications (the 16v and 1.8T timing belts are the same thickness).
You may also try to keep the stock configuration with the 1.8t flywheel, accessories pulleys and belts. The issue is that one of the pulleys may hit the front subframe. Apparently you are able to grind away 1” of metal away and the problem is solved.
Another option is to use accessories, belts, pulleys and brackets from an A3 2.0L block. The issue is that you need to machine an A3 flywheel (how?) to make it fit. Advantage of this is that you lose the 1.8T crank pulley (which appears to be heavy). To get the crank pulley machined down may cost around $75-$100.

If you do not want AC

Use the 1.8T belt configuration, the alternator, serpentine tensioner and crank pulley, use a vr6 serpentine waterpump pulley, and purchase a smaller serpentine belt to account for the missing AC compressor.

You can not mix and match the 1.8t pulleys with the 2.0 A3 pulleys
Advantage of going the A3 2.0L style is that you lose the 1.8T crank pulley (which weighs 40lbs), and I converted to 134a A/C with the A3 compressor. To get the crank pulley machined down only cost me $80.

1.5. What do you have to custom fabricate?

· a downpipe (rumor has it that Futrell Autoworks is working on a bolt-on down pipe for the AEB conversion – see question 1.12)

· modify the rear engine bracket to clear turbo by grinding away some part.

· custom IC piping

· throttle cable bracket

· MAP & air filter bracket

· Pretty much all the upper coolant lines need to be fabricated

1.6. What throttle cable to use if not using drive-by-wire?

A VR6 throttle cable reaches the throttle body on the passenger side of the car (any modifications needed to cable or linkage?). You will need to fabricate a custom throttle cable bracket. Cable price starts around $55 new.

1.7. What engine mounts and brackets does one use?

You would want to use the A2 front and rear bracket and mount. They bolt right up to the block. You will need to modify (grind) the rear mount on the mount side to clear the turbo.
Some people swap in ABA 2.0l subframes and brackets because they are the puck style mounts.
You may want to upgrade the tranny mount too to something that can handle the extra power (http://www.wasserwerx.com/transmount.htm is a possibility - apparently you will notice a less engine movement with this mount without an increase in vibration. The reason for no increased vibration is that this mount is made exactly like the OEM mount only structurally stronger which allows it to provide more control for movement without sacrificing extra vibration. It costs around $40)

1.8. Any issues with Turbo hitting the firewall?

Yes, the turbo may hit the firewall in its original orientation from the donor car. You may need to rotate the turbo. Loosen the (4) 10mm screws that hold the turbo housing in place, and rotate it up about 120-130 degrees from original position. You may need to drill a new hole on the waste gate bracket for a new location for on of the 10mm bolts.

1.9. Longitudinal engine oil pan hanging low issues – will a transverse oil pan fit?

No, the bolts do not line up. Careful where you drive.

1.10. What’s the deal with the tachometer signal?

Converts tach signal to work properly with pre-OBD 2 clusters (95 and older cars receiving 1.8T or 2.0L swaps). 1.8T and 2.0L Tach Converter Module costs about $150 and is available from Momentum Motorsports.

1.11. What is the extra work involved if using a drive-by-wire donor?

You need to get the instrument cluster, ignition and associated wiring to get around the immobilizer security. You also need to install the drive-by-wire pedal cluster.

1.12. Who makes a downpipe for the 1.8t conversion into the A2 chassis?

If you are using AEB engine, then you can get the proper A2 1.8t downpipe from www.futrellautowerks.com.

2. Electrical Related Questions

2.1. Do you need to get an ODBII 1551 connector (for VAG-COM)?

Yes. It is a must because you have to keep an eye on the codes you WILL be throwing.

2.2. Is the ODBII 1551 (for VAG-COM) connector part of the engine wiring harness or is it a separate wiring bundle?

The connector is a separate wiring bundle under the dash of donor cars. You will have to make an 1.8t/CE2 engine harness adapter. You can also pick up a 1551 adaptor out of the salvage yard from any VW or Audi car from '93 on up.

2.3. What to do about the wiring mess?

Have to make a custom harness that plugged right into the 1.8t wiring harness on one end and the existing central electrical system fuse panel on the other end. Utilize the old plugs from the shell’s digifant and the female plugs from the under dash harness of the 1.8t donor car and made a wire harness. You will also have to purchase a tachometer signal converter from Momentum Motorsports to convert the digital signal (from the 1.8T coil packs) to the analog signal for your tachometer to operate properly. The wiring may be the hardest part of the whole swap for most people.

3. Transmission Related Questions

3.1. What tranny do I use?

The stock A2 020 tranny will apparently bolt up without modifications. However, it was never built to handle 200hp and you need to do some upgrades like the differential bolt kit at the minimum. Not recommended to use an 020 from a pre '92 8v. The internals are not as strong and the main shaft is smaller than the 16v and '93 and later 8v 020 trannys.

Most people upgrade to the corrado 02A cable shift/hydraulic clutch tranny that was built to handle 160hp out of the box. You will need the tranny, the shifter assembly and the pedal cluster. You should also upgrade to a heavier clutch and get an LSD too while you are at it. You will need to use the 02A flywheel and clutch parts. Some people are also using the 02J trannys from the NB/G/J cars.

4. Additional Resources/Links

4.1. Are there any sites with pictures?

http://community.webshots.com/user/montanagreenmachine (most comprehensive set of pictures of A2 install)

http://home.maine.rr.com/kimberlys16vpage/1.8t%20Swap.html

http://scirocco20v.com/ (1.8t into a Scirocco)

http://interstate68.com/blackfly/gallery.htm (1.8t corrado)

4.2. Are there any sites that detail the swap procedure?

http://www.gtiworld.fsnet.co.uk/20Vprogress.htm (pretty detailed install writeup)

4.3. What tuners have done the swap and may have knowledge/needed parts?

http://www.eurospeedltd.com

http://www.eurospecsport.com

http://www.adrenalinmotorsport.com